"Numerous individuals covet this celebrity's stardom"
Quebec's Michelin Guide reveal, with a grand total of 102 establishments honored, has sparked a whirlwind of emotions – from excitement to disappointment. The guide was unveiled in a low-key, digital fashion, leaving many chefs and patrons refreshing their phones in anticipation.
François-Emmanuel Nicol, the chef behind Taniare – the only two-starred restaurant in Quebec – shared his collective experience, "It's a massive honor. The Michelin Guide is the most recognized worldwide." Simon Mathys, the humble chef of Mastard, had blocked reservations for 40 customers on Thursday to bottle up the shared experience, positive or negative. Those who earned the coveted star were overjoyed.
Many chefs consider a Michelin star a lifetime dream, with those who say otherwise likely fibbing, according to Jean-Christophe Poirier, a fellow starred chef from St. Lawrence in Vancouver. Robert Laporte, a professor-researcher in restaurant management at ITHQ, appreciates the guide's first selection of the 125-year-old culinary bible. "It reflects an image of our gastronomy as discreet luxury," he says.
However, some restaurateurs were left out of the starred limelight. Mon Lapin, named the best restaurant in Canada in 2023 and 2024 by Canada's 100 Best, did not receive a macaron but was included in the "recommended" list. Co-owner Vanya Filipovic was not surprised by the result, as La Lune, another establishment in their group, earned a place in the Bib Gourmand. The sommelier also received a "Special Prize."
Filipovic expressed joy for Quebec's culinary scene and the opportunity to celebrate its successes. "I'm really happy for someone like Daniel Vézina of Laurie Raphaël, who is having beautiful things at the end of his career, with his son who has taken over the kitchen. We must stay positive," she said.
Normand Laprise, chef of Toqué! and a father figure of Quebec gastronomy, showed his disappointment. "It makes me sad, especially for the team that works so hard. We prepared a toast at 4 pm, not knowing what was going to happen. When the results came out and we knew we didn't have a star, we had a toast anyway."
Despite differing opinions on the Michelin Guide, there's one thing all interviewed restaurateurs agree on: the importance of preserving Quebec's unique restaurant identity. "We won't put any more pressure on ourselves," says Patrice Demers, chef of Sabayon. "It's not true that I'll start serving canapés!" Demers suggests that, having obtained a star, customers might finally understand why securing a table at the intimate 14-seat restaurant is so challenging.
Earning a Michelin star may lead to increased costs, pressures, and customer expectations, ultimately causing some restaurants to spend too much on lavish decor and other non-essential elements. "Is it really what we want to do, go bankrupt for a star?", asks Vanya Filipovic of Mon Lapin and La Lune.
Gwendal Poullennec, international director of the Michelin Guide, encourages restaurants to focus on their customers rather than the guide itself. "The important thing is on the plate, not the decor," he says. Poullennec also emphasizes that the Michelin Guide's presence in Quebec is a beginning, not an end. The guide's agreement with Quebec is for three years, allowing inspectors to delve deeper into the diverse culinary landscape of the province, making for an intriguing narrative yet to unfold.
- Gwendal Poullennec, the international director of the Michelin Guide, encourages Quebec restaurants to maintain their unique identities, stating, "The important thing is on the plate, not the decor."
- Vanya Filipovic, co-owner of Mon Lapin and La Lune, questions whether the pursuit of a Michelin star is worth bankrupting a restaurant, asking, "Is it really what we want to do, go bankrupt for a star?"
- Chef Patrice Demers of Sabayon assures that despite earning a Michelin star, his restaurant will not lose its authenticity, saying, "It's not true that I'll start serving canapés!"
