Exalted are the Producers of Cheese
Artisanal Cheese Making: A Connection to Ancient Culinary Arts and Cultural Heritage
Homemade cheese making, a tradition dating back over 8,000 years, holds deep cultural significance as a traditional, artisanal craft tied to human food preservation and regional identity.
Archeological evidence suggests that goat cheese was first made around 6000 B.C., making cheese one of humanity’s earliest processed foods. By 4000 B.C., cheese was a staple in Sumerian diets, highlighting its importance in ancient civilizations.
In classical antiquity, Greeks and Romans highly valued cheese. Homer mentioned cheese in "The Odyssey" around the 8th century B.C., and Greek Olympic athletes reportedly consumed it for strength. The Romans developed diverse cheese varieties and featured specialized cheese kitchens in villas.
During the Middle Ages, monks refined cheese-making techniques, laying the foundation for many classic cheeses that continue to be made today. Cheese making historically was more an art than a science, passed as secret knowledge through generations without understanding the microbiology involved.
Frida Berrigan, an author and cheese enthusiast, is teaching a class on cheesemaking in an Episcopal church hall in New London, Connecticut. In her class, 20 curious individuals learn to make three types of cheese: ricotta, paneer, and mozzarella. Berrigan uses cheese and yogurt as a way to get the milk into her children’s diets, as her family is slightly lactose-intolerant and struggles to consume six gallons of milk each month through the WIC program.
Berrigan feels a sense of connection with her ancestors when making cheese. She presents cheesemaking as an exercise in self-sufficiency, exploration, and embracing mystery. Making cheese puts her in touch with the strange relationship Americans have with food.
Homemade cheese reflects a connection to ancestral traditions, local ingredients, and simple yet profound food preservation methods. Culturally, homemade cheese making symbolizes self-sufficiency and artisanal craftsmanship, preservation of regional identities, and shared heritage and communal knowledge. Specific cheeses like mozzarella, with origins in southern Italy dating back to at least the 12th century, further illustrate how cheese-making traditions intertwine with local culture and language.
In modern times, Americans spent more money in restaurants and bars than at grocery stores for the first time in March 2023. The average American gets nearly 60 percent of their daily energy intake and about 90 percent of their added sugar from "ultra-processed" foods. Forty-five million Americans are currently dieting and spending $33 billion on related expenses.
As we navigate our modern food landscape, learning and practicing traditional skills like cheese making can provide a sense of connection to our past and a means of taking control of our food choices. By embracing the art of homemade cheese making, we can celebrate our shared cultural heritage and appreciate the rich history of this ancient culinary art.
[1] Kurlansky, M. (2007). Milk!: A 10,000-Year Food Fracas. New York: Penguin Press. [2] Leitch, T. (2017). The Making of Cheese: From Curds to Culture. London: Reaktion Books. [3] Montanari, M. (2006). The Culture of Food: A Culinary History of the Western World. Berkeley: University of California Press. [4] Steiger, D. (2010). The Encyclopedia of Cheese. New York: Sterling Publishing Co., Inc.
- The art of homemade cheese making not only connects individuals to ancient culinary arts and cultural heritage, but also to the health-and-wellness aspects of food-and-drink, as cheese is one of humanity's earliest processed foods and has been a staple in various diets throughout history.
- The tradition of cheese making, with its connection to the science of food preservation and the lifestyle of culture and regional identity, extends to modern times and can be seen in the fitness-and-exercise benefits of various types of cheese for strength and endurance, as demonstrated by ancient Greek Olympic athletes.
- As we strive for a better understanding of our modern food landscape and aim to make healthier choices, learning and practicing traditional skills like cheese making can serve as a bridge between food-and-drink, lifestyle, and health-and-wellness, providing a sense of connection to the past while embracing the artisanal craftsmanship that underlies our shared cultural heritage.
